Nikki Rigging Guide
32Pages

Designed, developed and manufactured in Melbourne, Australia

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Index Introduction Inspecting your new Nikki Hiking Straps Sail Numbers Vang System - Vang rope tailing system Rudderbox/Tiller - Rudder angle adjuster Daggerboard - attaching the pushrod Wand - height sensor Launching and leaving the shore Returning to shore and unrigging

Introduction This rigging guide explains in detail how to rig your Nikki from the very beginning. It is intended to provide you with details of how to rig the boat ready for sailing. It does not instruct you on how to sail, seek proper training and guidance prior to sailing Nikki. Information on how to launch and sail, capsize recovery and safety precautions are contained in the Operating Guide. Inspecting your new Nikki Check everything is in the package when delivered and first opened. Immediately let your distributor know if any parts did not arrive. 1 x Nikki Hull 2 x Wings 1 x Trolley...

Trolley The flat pack trolley is quickly and easily assembled with spring clips. To join the trolley centre bar and the trolley rear bar together, push the spring clip in and insert the centre bar into the square tube on the trolley rear bar. The spring clip will click into the hole. To insert the axles, again push the spring clip in and insert the axle into the tube on the trolley rear bar. The spring clip will click into the hole on the underneath side of the tube. Repeat for opposite side. To attach the wheels, place the wheels onto the axle, then place the washer over the axle. Insert...

To attach the centre T-bar, push the spring clip in and insert the T-bar into upstand on the trolley centre bar. The spring clip will click into the hole. Attach the handle by again pushing the spring clip in and inserting it into the tube at the very front of the trolley. The spring clip will click into the hole.

Hull The hull is custom built from a solid foam core with a durable epoxy glass skin. The hull is very unlikely to leak or sink, and there are no inspection hatches or drain plugs. All fittings have been attached from factory. It comes in its very own boat bag. EVA foam is applied to the deck for comfort and grip. Do not paint, vinyl wrap or heavily sticker the hull in dark colours, as overheating may cause damage to the hull. The handle at the bow is made for lifting the bow of the boat. WARNING: DO NOT cover up any of the air valves. This hole needs to breathe, covering this will void...

Wings The port and starboard wings are provided with trampoline covers already laced up. 1. Simply slide the font wing bar into the hole. Lower the rear bar into position and push the bar over the inner pin. The outer pin will sit inside the hole on the bracket attached to the rear bar. Push the retaining pin in place.

The righting rope is used when capsized, and is lead under the wings. To remove wings: Undo the retaining fast pin (1), lift the rear wing bar up and pull it away from the hull to clear of the 2 attachment pins (2). Then slide the front wing bar outwards and away from the hull (3). The wing covers are supplied fully assembled, laced together with cable ties. Should the covers need replacing, these ties are easy to cut off and replaced. Only use UV stable Nylon with at least 50Kg breaking load. The underside of the wing covers have yellow stripes to help make the boat more easily visible...

Hiking straps Hiking straps are attached to the boat. They are placed over the front wing bar so you can easily get your feet under. The straps sit under the rear wing bar so that the wings are easy to attach and remove. There are 2 different hiking strap positions. Rope is provided so you can adjust the front of the straps to suit your personal preference. WARNING: When changing the rear strap position, be sure to ONLY use the screws provided. DO NOT use power tools to screw these in – they must ONLY be screwed in by hand.

Mast The two-piece carbon mast is fitted with a head sheeve, halyard, halyard lock, Vang saddle, plastic sail track, a plastic sleeve and a mast base plug. 1. Slide the mast base and mast tip together, making sure the sail track aligns, if you like, put some tape over the join to stop it rotating. Make sure the mast hole is clear from any debris, then raise the mast and insert it with the sail track facing the bow into the mast hole. Once fully down, rotate the mast 180degrees to its sailing position with the sail track towards the stern. Disconnect the vang and mainsheet systems, pull the...

Sail The sail comes in its own bag with battens inserted, but not tightened. Use the allen key or screwdriver provided to tension up the battens before hoisting the sail. To achieve correct batten tension, wind the screw in to tighten the batten tension until the crinkles in the batten pocket just disappear. From there, it is a matter of fine tuning for different weather conditions. Typically, in more wind, slightly loosen off the battens. In lighter winds, tighten the battens slightly. Insert the head of the sail into the sail-feeder and feed the luff up the sail track on the back of the...

When the sail is fully raised, insert the swage into the halyard lock on the front side of the mast. Run the excess rope through the halyard keepers on the front of the mast. Cleat the rope onto the horn cleat near the base of the sail track. The remaining halyard rope can be stored in the sail pocket.

Sail Numbers Sail numbers are supplied with each sail. In the manual pouch, there will be 6 x 230mm numbers. The sail number is the same as the boats serial number located on the transom of the hull. If you have digital #8 numbers, to achieve correct sail numbers relative to your boat, follow these steps. Cut out the grey areas with a sharp pair of scissors Place them on the sail roughly parallel to the battens • Numbers on the starboard side of the sail must be higher than the port side. • Place the numbers above the bottom batten as shown. • Position the numbers a minimum of 45mm apart...