Rigging instructions and general information Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

(Rigging Instructions from the Original owners manual - circa 1973) The SANDPIPER 565 sailing sloop was first manufactured in 1972 by Messrs. Sandpiper Marine Ltd. of Southampton, England, and was built under licence by C&L Boatworks located in Fort Erie, Ontario This seaworthy and stable yacht has many desirable features, and with its' retractable keel is so adaptable for trailering, launching and beaching that its owners can enjoy sailing in many different waters. Outstanding amongst its characteristics is the carefully designed and extremely dry cockpit with its high coaming for comfortable...

Item numbers and description of parts 4 Sliding hatch cover 7 Jib sheet jamb cleat 9 Jib sheet slider block 28 Anchor & chain locker 34 Port quarter berth 38 Starboard quarter berth 39 Port forward berth 42 Main cabin floor 43 Starboard forward berth

GENERAL RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS FOR SANDPIPER 565 Introductory Comments: In order that these instructions may be comprehensible to comparative newcomers to sailing, they are written in elementary terms and an attempt is made to explain the meaning of nautical words when they occur. Most experienced sailors have their own ideas on how to rig their boat, but these instructions are intended to provide a basis from which the new owner of a SANDPIPER 565 can begin. The mast when "stepped", i.e. erected, is supported by three wire stays collectively called the standing rigging. All three have an eye at...

Shroud wires A7 are both the same lengths. Attach eye end A6 to mast tang A19 on each side Of mast at 3/4 height from mast heel using headed clevis pins and split pins. Insert shrouds A7 into slot in outboard end of spreader tubes AB and secure with split pins. -Set spreaders at right angle to mast and with downward tension on shroud wires tape together tightly. Attach turnbuckle AIO right hand threaded fork end to lower end of shroud eye end A6 with clevis Pin and split pin. Forestay wire A9 attach eye end A6 to houndband AS using clevis pin and split pin. Attach turnbuckle AID right hand threadedfork...

Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

2. Running Rigging and the Boom The running rigging comprises the halyards, which hoist the sails, and the sheets, which control their position when sailing. There are two halyards. One, which runs up the front face of the mast and down the back face, is the Main Halyard and consists of a wire with a braided rope tail, and is used to hoist the mainsail. The other halyard consists of a braided rope which runs outside of the mast through a swivel pulley located below the forestay wire mast tang. This the Jib Halyard and hoists the The boom is the spar, which is attached to the mast and to the foot...

Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

The forward edge of the mainsail and jib is called the LUFF. In the case of the jib there is an internal wire running up the luff, whereas the mainsail has a rope edge (the luff rope) attached to the luff. The lower edge of the sail is called the FOOT, and the other edge the LEECH. There are four pockets extending into the mainsail from its leech and four battens are provided to stiffen the after edge of the sail. The corners of the sail are provided with eyes called CRINGLES. The top corner of each sail is its HEAD; the forward bottom corner its TACK and the aft bottom corner its CLEW. At the...

Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

5. Jibsheet and Mainsheet arrangements Reeve jibsheet F2 (3/8" x 40ft. Dacron line) through the jib clew El until it is even on both sides. Knot each side of the clew eye with a single overhand knot. Pass lines one each side of front face of mast and reeve each end through the jib sliding block F3 located on port and starboard side decks near cabin window. Pass- each sheet end through the jamb cleat combination block eye FI. Tie a figure eight knot close to the end of each sheet to stop it escaping the eye. Attach the swivel of the single sheave block Dl to the link plate B2 at the clew end of...

open leech. If the sail has a very full luff, then a Cunningham line should be used to tighten the excess luff to flatten the sail for heavy airs. (b) Boom tackle: see figure 6 To control the extent to which the boom can lift when sailing, a tackle known as a kicking strap, or boom vang, is provided. In its simplest form it comprises a short wire strop attached to the mast bracket at one end and the other end of a vee jamb block with a "D" shackle and clevis pin. Another block with a special keyhole lug is snapped into the fitting underneath the boom. A lanyard is reeved through the two blocks...

íiaíJisheet and kiclcinp strop airain^ ernenta, Item numberg and Description Boom vang assembly Single becket block i"lanyard Dacron line Wire strop Mainsbeet assembly D2 3/8" Dacron line (inaansheet) D3 Sister block and jatrib cleat

Having learned how to bend (rig) and hoist the sails by practicing ashore several times, the boat should be launched with the sails lowered. The boat should be secured to a dock or mooring. IT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO WATCH FOR LOW OVERHEAD HYDRO WIRES when stepping the mast prior to launching and again when lowering the mast after winching on a trailer, especially at an unfamiliar site. (a) Retractable Keel arrangement: see figure 7, The operation of the keel, which is raised and lowered manually, must be checked before preparation for sailing. Move the boat into minimum depth of 3 ft. of water...

03 - Bidder Assembly Datila 8 JX m Retractabas keel as s enibjy details Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

In light weather you should experience very little trouble with full mainsail and genoa in handling all points of sailing with your SANDPIPER 565. If you have been used to a lighter boat you will find the SANDPIPER 565 will take just that much longer to tack, gybe or bear off, so do not at first get too close to moored, or other craft while In moderate to heavy weather the answer is to reduce sail by reefing and to use a small jib. The method of reefing the mainsail has already been explained. To change jibs when afloat is rather difficult as it means going on the foredeck to reach the stemhead...